This is probably my favorite shot I have taken in the water. Kiron Jabour during the Backdoor Shootout. I won’t lie, it’s tough and very nerve-racking swimming at Pipe with one leg. My prosthetic is a total anchor and, with the ability to only wear one swim fin, can make it difficult. I started out shooting the small and medium-size days a few years back. One of the worst situations is getting caught inside and watching all the other photographers around you swim to safety in the channel. I feel like I am dragging an anchor (my prosthetic) going nowhere as the water gets shallower around me and then begins to boil. Then I know I am in for it and brace for a lip to the head. It feels like my heart is jumping out of my chest. Been smoked out there a bunch, all on the small and medium days. I had to push through that fear, and this image is a bit of a reward for overcoming those difficulties. 1/1250@f11 ISO 200. 70-200mm lens. Photo: Mike Coots